EDGY & AVANT-GARDE
AMAZON FASHION WEEK
TOKYO FALL / WINTER 2017
Text/ Wesley Sin Photo/ Ayumi Hills, Brand PR
What is the best term to describe Tokyo Fashion Week? I think “edgy “will be my first choice.
The Fall/ Winter 17 collection is especially anticipated because several Avant-garde Japanese designers chose to debut their runway collection at the official Tokyo Fashion Week sponsored by Amazon Fashion. Growing Pain, by celebrity designer Mademoiselle Yulia, brought the late World War look back with the nurse figure she created while Doublet’s debut show re-created the 90’s rave party for the viewers. HARE showed the best combination of traditional Japanese kimono and urban style for the first time at Tokyo Fashion Week. Designer Tae Ishida and Tokuko Maeda integrated their life experience overseas and created their unique styles. Follow us to Tokyo and experience the edgy trends for the upcoming fall and winter.
TOKUKO 1er Vol
We still remember how designer Tokuko Maeda brought us to the French cottage at Tokuko 1er Vol’s spring 2017 runway. In her F/W 17 collection, she is going to share more of her living experiences in Europe with all. “Polska” is her theme for the entire design with a lot of pieces inspired by Polish traditional cultural dresses. Floral botanical prints, bow ribbon, tiered overlapping, lace embroidery and tribal folk ornaments combined the European tradition with sweet Japanese Lolita styles. With floral pattern projection and Polish folk music, Tokuko showed the audience her unique fashion taste yet again.
Daughter of famous Japanese designer Jun Ashida, Tae Ashida started her own clothing line back in 2012. Her education background in Switzerland and America makes her design closer to the western trend. In the F/W 17 collection, Tae redefined silhouettes in superb fabrics such as tweed, jacquard, dyed fur and leather. Some pieces with simple single colors such as black, gray and navy showed the elegant side of women while other items with geometric graphic patterns brought the whole collection some fun retro twists.
Designer-Duo Takeshi Kitazawa and Emiko Sato have gained their popularity among young people in Tokyo since they were the creative directors of the cutting edge select shop, CANDY. Established in 2009, their own brand, DRESSEDUNDERDRESSED, is known for their casual chic design. Through the past few seasons, unisex style has been the key point in their collections. Loose shirts with ultra-long sleeves, double breasted ponchos and oversized long coats are three signature styles of the season. 90’s white and black caps are also must-have items to match anything!
Founders of Discovered, Tatsuya Kimura and Sanae Yoshida are known as designers and stylists for many musicians, DJs and actors since 2001. They always pursue the genre-less designs, fusion of conflicting tastes and the mix of opposition. Their F/W 17 collection is inspired by the British rock band Primal Scream. The title of Primal Scream’s album “XTRMNTR” back in 2000 was also chosen to be the name of the collection. The mixture of materials such as flannels, chunky knits, suede and furs is significant in this collection. The logo from “XTRMNTR” and British flags are also printed on some items. Not only the design, but the overall mix-and-match skill of the stylist also shows us the unique Tokyo street vibes.
Well-established streetwear brand HARE joined Tokyo Fashion Week for the first time. Although the cool runway show was hosted in a warehouse at Shinagawa, HARE brought their design concept from the store in Harajuku to the world. For their fashion week debut, the creative team tried to combine some traditional Japanese elements with the urban streetwear look. Details of the long coats on the runway were inspired by the shape of Kimonos, some calligraphy patterns were also printed on the jackets or skirts, Vivid red, purple and orange colors with shiny satin were seen on both men’s and women’s wear. Can’t wait till the winter? You can buy few ready-to-wear pieces online immediately right after the show!
When we got this hand-drew invitation from Doublet, we had a feeling that this Tokyo Fashion Week debut show of designer Masayuki Ino would be very different. The designer made his first runway feel like a rave party back in the 90’s and chose some non-professional cool people to be the models. He tried to show everyone’s unique character and attitude throughout the show, including a nerdy look with glasses and oversized hoody, a cool punk kid with red hair and some grungy sexiness with stomach-bearing T-shirts. No doubt, urban street style is a new trend no matter where you are.
One of the most anticipated shows of Tokyo Fashion Week is hosted by celebrity DJ, singer and fashion icon, Mademoiselle Yulia. With her edgy and diverse contributions to the music industry through her fashion, she has performed at numerous fashion events including Chanel, Stella McCartney and H&M. She created “Growing Pain” in 2016 and rapidly gained a lot of attention from her followers on social media. For Yulia, fashion is a nourishing nutrition of our daily life which is full of battles and pains. She created a gracious and strong nurse figure that we need in order to survive our battlefields. In the F/W 17 collection, most of the pieces are inspired by the late World War period. A 1940’s feminine silhouette and military details were combined to show the femme-military hybrid aesthetic. Through her avant-garde design, all the growing pains will be healed.
About the Contributors:
Wesley Sin is a writer for travel and fashion guides from Taiwan. His personal publications include What’s New in Tokyo, Tokyo Fashion Guide, Travel in New York by Subway and more. He is currently working in New York as a PR professional all the while writing and contributing from the Big Apple.
Follow him on Facebook @ facebook.com/Sin.Wesley & Instagram @wesley_sin
Ayumi Hills is a model and blogger based in Japan. Her living experiences in Tokyo, Taipei and Sydney become her unique tastes of fashion and styles.
Follow her on Facebook @ facebook.com/Ayumihills & Instagram @ayumihills