Jason Wu 2012 Fall Collection

By Silvia Yen

Jason Wu Fall 2012 runway show started with drum beats and a huge red door. When the door opened, smoke poured out and so did Wu’s army. Do you see the theme here?

Wu got inspired from Chinese cultural during the period of Qing Dynasty, from Mao’s military jacket, and also from 40′s Hollywood Shanghai Express. In less capable hands it could be a fashion disaster, but Wu combined these elements flawlessly.

In this spot-on modern collection, Wu used a color palette of red, burgundy, black, gold, and moss green, sprinkled with fur and stud accents. Gold embroidery, Swarovski elements, and Chinese brocade added to the rich feel of the collection.

Hearing over and over about how “strong” Wu’s army is this season, the high ponytails were meant to look like a horse’s tail. “It’s a very strong ponytail because Wu’s girls are fighters” the lead hair stylist Odile Gilbert said. The emerald eyes, achieved with MAC pigment and two different eye pencils, completed the polished, dramatic look. The lead makeup artist Diane Kendal, “Jason always does a strong girl.”

As for Wu’s accessories, this season was the first time Wu introduced minaudière clutches. This move proved that Wu also has some marketing prowess. His handbag empire is growing with the recent Daphne bag, which is named after the ethereal Daphne Groeneveld.

The finale of this show was one of the more striking I have ever seen. Even Anna Wintour took her sunglasses off and cracked a hint of a smile. Wu’s girls marched out in three rows, looking like a model army about to take over the world, one divine dress at a time.